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Pre-Charged Line Sets Are For Real, Right?

pre-charged line sets

Pre-charged line sets aren’t exactly a new innovation in the HVAC industry, but they’re not exactly widespread either. When we tell people our MRCOOL DIY line sets do not need to be vacuumed down, plenty of installers out there, professional or otherwise, just don’t believe it. But, hey, don’t take my word for it!

Pre-Charged Line Sets Are the Real Deal

A picture is worth a thousand words, so a YouTube video has to be worth like a novel or something. Anyway, check out the comments in our 2nd-generation DIY install video and you’ll find plenty of folks who don’t quite believe. If you don’t want to take the time, then I’ll sum up the highlights for you.

No vacuum? Are you kidding me?” – St2288

How is that possible?” – E Money

Don’t you have to use a vacuum pump or purge the lines?” – Juan Silva

Wait a sec, no purge of the line-set or vacuuming them down first?” – Butchtropic

Yeah, there are a few skeptics.

So, Are Pre-Charged Line Sets Real or What?

Yes! For the last time, yes!

We here at MRCOOL did not invent pre-charged line sets. They’ve been around for years, but were mainly confined to the modular and mobile home market. That might be one reason why so many people have not heard of them. Don’t worry! Pre-charged line set technology proved itself years ago.  Basically, all we’re doing is applying them in an innovative way.

Innovative How?

One or two manufacturers have used a version of pre-charged line sets on ductless mini-split units before, but we are proud to say that no one has taken it as far as we have. The MRCOOL DIY 2nd-generation Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump is truly cutting edge technology. Our unique approach makes line sets easy and safe to handle. Best of all, any smart homeowner can put one of our DIY units up in a few hours with no specialized tools.

It’s like they’re comfort made simple or something.

67 thoughts on “Pre-Charged Line Sets Are For Real, Right?”

  1. What size wire is required for the DIY 24k btu? The specs state a minimum circuit ampacity of 15a. That would mean 14 gauge wire. My electrician says 12 or even 10 gauge.
    Also can I use a 30 amp disconnect or it has to be 25amp?

    1. There should be a wiring chart in the installation manual on page 17. We would recommend a 12 gauge. Your disconnect should be 25 amp or more.

  2. How long are the line sets included with the 36k BTU? Can the excess line set be rolled up? I have about a 12 foot run from where the indoor unit is to where I will be installing the outdoor unit.

    1. I believe the line sets on that unit are 25 feet. Yes, the excess can be rolled up to look quite neat. That’s what most people do in fact.

  3. Is there an option to get longer line sets?
    I want to install the air handler in a remodeled attic, so the distance from the top to the ground is closer to 32 feet. Also is there a maximum height distance that you cannot go beyond?

    1. There is not an option right now for longer line sets. We’ve got some things in the works, and that is a product we hope to roll out eventually. Can you give me some more details about how you want to install the unit?

      1. I am in the same boa as Chuck. My run is close to 40 feet. I’d love to buy a 12k unit but the lack of line options is a deal buster. 🙁
        Any ideas on how to find a reasonable HVAC tech to install?

        1. You can always use Google, of course. I know some people have had luck using Craigslist and Angie’s List.

  4. I have some suggestions:

    – Smaller capacity! 12k BTUs is super overkill for a bedroom; something around 3000 is more reasonable. All the better if this raises the SEER and HSPF numbers.
    – Short linesets: if I’m going right through a wall, I don’t need 26 feet.
    – A standard wall plug; no hard-wiring!
    – Get the price under $1k

    If you sold units with those features, I’d buy four, like, yesterday.

    1. Thanks, Nate.

      – Interesting idea.
      – The problem there is about manufacturing cost. We’re working on a way to give customers more precharged lineset options, but it’s still very early in development.
      – That could be possible if we made a smaller capacity unit, but none of the current units can be safely plugged into a standard wall socket.
      – Nate, most dealers sell our Advantage units at around $700.

  5. Regarding the 24k btu, the electrical data on the brochure states “max fuse 25amps”. I read this as saying the disconnect must be fused at 25 amps. However, one of the answers to the questions above says ” preferably non fused”. Can you please clarify the requirements ? Does it require just a 25 amp breaker at the panel or the 25 amp breaker at the panel and the 25 amp fused disconnect?

    1. You do not have to have a fused disconnect. You may have a non-breaker disconnect. At the breaker panel, it has to be 25 amps. The outside disconnect is only for servicing the unit.

    1. The pre-charged linesets only come in 25′. You can get a variable length with an Advantage or Oasis unit. They are not DIY, but they are very good units. A 12k should be sufficient for 500 square feet, but you might want to get an 18k just to be sure.

        1. We have DIY ductless mini-split heat pumps and Packaged DIY units. If it doesn’t say DIY in the title, it’s not DIY. Well, not without some specialized tools and training anyway.

  6. Can u cut the pre charge line set and wiegh the 410a back in I had a homeowner call me today and he said he bought one of these units and the line is to long I am licensed tech

    1. Yes, that would be possible. The refrigerant lines with a DIY unit are pre-charged, but other than that they are basic refrigerant lines.

    1. If the unit is installed and then uninstalled correctly, no, you would not have to charge the lines. If errors occur and refrigerant escapes the system, then it would require charging to the appropriate capacity.

      1. Do you guys make a 3 zone system in the DIY? I have a small 2 bedroom cabin approx 800 SF. I’d really like to have an indoor unit in each bedroom and one in the living room that is open to the kitchen.

        1. We do not currently offer a DIY multi-zone unit. For that, I would recommend the Olympus. It will require a contractor to install, as special equipment is necessary. Alternatively, you could install multiple DIY units.

      1. No I’m asking about the range the inverter throttles down to and up to. I’m guessing 18,000 btu and 24,000 btu is the most it puts out during high load but what’s the lowest it puts out when the load is low like during the shoulder seasons?

          1. Thank you very much for this information that’s exactly what I was looking for. Does the hyper heat units have the same range as well for the 18,000 and 24,000 units.

  7. Thanks for the reply last question,is it more efficient to leave the unit on for longer periods of time or is it better to shut it off if I have to leave the house for an hour or so?

    1. Typically, shutting the air conditioning off for short periods to save money doesn’t really work. The only time I do something like that is when I’m going to be away from home for a few days. I also never turn the unit off completely. Dehumidification is an important part of air conditioning, and keeping interior humidity at a reasonable level can help prevent mold growth. Just set the temperature higher than what you would normally comfortable with, but not so high that the unit never kicks on.

      1. So, should unit be shut down in those temps and auxiliary heat take over? Do you have any units designed for lower ambient?

        1. Yes, that would be recommended. Our Oasis Hyper Heat units are designed to operate more effectively at lower temperatures.

  8. I have the DIY 18000 BTU. I have heard there are alot of problems using the smart phone app. I can’t even get the QR code to read without it saying illegal code! What can I do, and when will the app be taken care of so it works? That’s one of the reasons I purchased a Mrcool!

    1. The ‘illegal code’ error message usually display when you scan the wrong area of the box. Give us a call at 270-366-0457, ask for tech, and they’ll walk you through the process.

      1. Did you put the Indoor unit in AP mode? (by holding the led button on the remote for 4secs) I had the same problem when I bought it last year

  9. Any plans in the works for a multi zone DIY unit?

    We have a single level 1100 sf house (26×43), our Split Ac went out and I am
    looking at all possibilities for replacement. The house is open kitchen, living and dining room followed by a hall with 2 small bedroom and one larger master. Ceiling Mounted return vent in hall for central gas heat and ac.

    Wondering if one 24k unit on living room wall opposite the return vent (hall is off living room center and runs down center of house) would work. When needed turn on furnace blower to circulate air through out the house? Could probably wire furnace blower to come on at a set temp in cool mode (with current ac disconnected of course)?

    The price of your unit beats a $4000-6000 split ac install. Bearing the fact in Boise Idaho we need AC only 3-4 months of the year (wife’s View) 2-3weeks in August (my view)

    1. We have had internal discussions about a multi-zone DIY system. However, if we deploy a product like that, it won’t be anytime soon.

      A 24k in the main living area should be sufficient for a lot of your cooling needs. You could then put a 12k or 18k (at most) in the master bedroom. Together, I think those two would be sufficient for your entire house. You could probably wire the blower to act as an improvised cool air circulator, but I don’t think that would be necessary. Proper mini-split placement should meet your needs without having to worry about jury-rigging your heater.

      1. Thanks for the quick reply. Trying to avoid the cost of 2 systems. I keep pondering If one 24K would work for whole house.
        As to the furnace I think all it would be is; disconnecting the control wire to the current outdoor unit. Setting the thermostat to cool position and temp say to x degrees. This will force the blower to come on till the bedroom area reaches x degrees. Distributing cool air to the bedrooms.

        Our duct work is in a crawl space and not in the attic so it stays pretty cool in the summer.
        Returns are insulated and in the attic though. Right now it is 81 outside left windows open last night and blower running no ac on it is a col 72 inside.

        1. A 24k is going to be good for around 1000 square feet. If you wanted one system for the entire house, you may want to move up to a 36k.

  10. I just installed the 18K DIY unit and love it…was very user friendly..
    I will be moving next year and will be taking the Mini-Split with me to the new residence..

    My ? is ,I know how to pump down a unit ,with the proper gauges and vacuum pump.,but how would this apply to the DIY18K ??
    basically I am asking ,”when I am installing the unit back in the new location,do I follow the same procedures as when it was brand new,or do I need to purge the Lines like a normal non-diy install?
    I have searched for answers on Google but not alot of information as far as DIY pre-charged lines and what to do after disconnecting for move to new location

    1. When you’re taking it apart, you’ll basically want to do the installation backwards, so to speak. Make sure the valves are closed before you disconnect the refrigerant lines, of course. When you’re putting it back together, do it the same way you did it the first time. If ever thing goes as planned, you should not need to vacuum the lines or add any additional refrigerant.

      1. I don’t understand your reply. So, if the refrigerant lines are pre-charged, and then the DIY owner re-seals the outside unit ports (by closing the 5mm allen screws) to the lines, and then disconnects the lines. (I think these are steps you’ve outlined, above). Then, when the lines are disconnected from the outside unit, the lines lose their charge.

        At that point, at re-installation time, the DIY owner is calling a tech to vacuum purge and re-charge the lines.
        Right?

        I’m attempting to be clear, and demonstrate you’ve apparently left something out of your explanation of re-connection.

        1. They should not lose their charge. The connection couplings should mechanically close once they’re detached.

  11. I found your air conditioners and the reviews are great. They are back ordered or not available every site I find. What is your production schedule? I’m looking to get one delivered to Home Depot in Galveston, if that matters. Looking forward to installing a 36K DIY in my beach house. My window units can’t keep up!

    Thanks!

    Lane

  12. On the 18k diy mr cool one line set is bigger around than the other does it matter which one screws onto the top and bottom of outside unit?

    1. Make sure you connect the line sets properly in accordance with the instructions in the Installation Manual. Yes, one is larger and one is smaller, and it does matter where they are attached.

  13. The manual shows the location of the pass thru hole in the wall is either in the lower left or lower right corner of the indoor unit. The unit as delivered has the tubes bent tightly to cross over to the right side, then the tubes are wound up in the box in what I can only describe as a tight oval. I was going to install the pass thru on the lower right (facing the unit), but the bend in the tube there is pretty tight and I am fearful of bending the tube too tightly or even kinking it, or breaking it if I try to straighten it out. Is there any reason I shouldn’t make the pass thru hole more toward the middle of the unit (just inboard of the wall bracket)? Then I would be bending the tube in a place it has not been prestressed.

    Otherwise, is there a procedure for unbending the tubes to get the pass thru on the right side without risking damage?

    1. I don’t know of a reason why you couldn’t modify the position of the wall hole so long as it can be maneuvered through undamaged. I would recommend you follow-up with our tech guys. Call 270-366-0457 and ask for tech.

  14. Re: DIY 18 for 750 sq ft shop, well-insulated, eastern MA. You’ve stated that lowest outside temp for heat is “low teens”. Is this for making its rated amount of heat, or for making any heat at all? Thoughts on installing compressor in adjoining garage, which even though unheated, never gets really cold (below 15-20°)? Would that benefit the low-temp winter operation? Or should I leave my oil burner functional?

    1. There are a lot of factors to take into account in your example here. Any heat pump, ours or otherwise, takes heat out of the air and puts it inside your house. The colder it gets outside, the harder it is for the unit to gather that heat, so efficiency drops. The AHRI only rates units down to 17 degrees, so that’s the lowest verifiable operating rate we can provide. If you had the condenser in an insulated garage, that could help maintain even efficiency for a longer period of time. However, while the interior air handler would be heating your shop, the condenser in the garage would, in effect, be acting as an air conditioner. The garage location would benefit winter heat pump heating, but at some point, I’m not sure exactly when, the condenser would cool the garage to such an extent that it compromised its own efficiency. Personally, I would try to get as much heat as I could efficiently from the mini-split, then turn the oil burner when it just gets too cold.

      Hyper heat units like our Oasis Hyper Heat and others can handle lower winter temperatures, but, since they’re heat pumps, all of them ‘bottom out’ at some point.

      1. I appreciate your reply, and that makes sense. Gets into the question of how much “heat” can you suck out of “cold” air. As an aside, the shop equipment generates waste heat in the room, and I really don’t need supplemental heat until the outdoor temp is below 30-ish. Bigger issue is winter nights, when the outside temp can be lowest, machinery is off, and I want to maintain that equipment at 60-65. I’m only at the early investigating stage, and again thanks for the reply.

  15. I understand one should switch to other heat sources past -17 degrees, but I would like to know if the unit compromised at colder temperatures (Canadian winters can get below -40)? For example, if I accidentally don’t realize the tempature has a sudden drop to -20, will it simply be ineffective or can it potentially hurt the unit? Also, is it perfectly safe in extreme cold when shut off for the cold winter months?

    1. It will shut down and go into defrost mode. Being exposed to extreme weather should not damage the condenser. It is a good idea to prevent snow and ice from building up around the condenser, but that’s a good rule to follow with any HVAC unit.

    1. Everything should be in stock right now except for DIY 12k units. More of those should be back in inventory in 3-4 weeks.

  16. I would recommend MRCOOL to start making pre-charged lines in different sizes like 5′, 10′, 15′, 20′ 25′ and so on. One should be able to order it based on one’s requirement. In my case I want to buy 5 DYI unit but with different sizes of lines to make the installation looks better. What are your thoughts.

    1. This is something we go back and forth on. On the one hand, we want to give people as many options as possible. On the other, we want to minimize the potential for an install going wrong, and different length linesets would necessitate a non-factory installed connection to the air handler. It’s a tough call. We’re going to stick with a single lineset size for now, but that may change in the future.

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